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The Frosty Hesson memoirs of the Mavericks big wave rides
The life of Jay Moriarity was changed forever when he met Richard "Frosty" Hesson in 1990 in Santa Cruz, Northern California. Jay wanted to be like Frosty, and he managed to surf Mavericks at Half Moon Bay.
Big wave surfer Jay Moriarity had the best tutor he could've had - Frosty Hesson.
The man behind the construction of a legend in the history of surfing is a Santa Cruz icon, too.
Hesson defended the four pillars of a solid human foundation: physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual.
The waterman passed his knowledge to Jay, as seen in the biopic surf movie "Chasing Mavericks."
Frosty Hesson started surfing in California in 1963.
After gaining experience in the cold waters of Santa Cruz, he joined a group of wave explorers in the Mavericks challenge in the 1980s.
The life of Frosty Hesson has not been easy, though.
The experienced big wave rider lived a turbulent youth.
He had a swimming and water polo career